Stiff, reasonably light and taps beautifully...that's what I 've been telling my wife. [
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| Osage orange bridgeplate http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=3283 |
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| Author: | John Kinnaird [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 4:17 am ] |
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That should work don't you think? I normally use padouk, or narra, one of the pterocarpus guys but I seem to be temporarily out. But I do have osage orange and it is stiff and reasonably light and tough and it taps beautifully. I want some consensual validation here. Do I hear an Amen? |
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 4:25 am ] |
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Stiff, reasonably light and taps beautifully...that's what I 've been telling my wife. [
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:05 am ] |
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[QUOTE=John Kinnaird] That should work don't you think? I normally use padouk, or narra, or of the pterocarpus guys but I seem to be temporarily out. But I do have osage orange and it is stiff and reasonably light and tough and it taps beautifully. I want some consensual validation here. Do I hear an Amen?[/QUOTE] Tim McKnight swears by it. |
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| Author: | hoosierukes [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:27 am ] |
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I've used it for uke fingerboards and bridges with success. Geoff |
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| Author: | Bobc [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 6:23 am ] |
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John the osage should work just fine. If you want some padauk let me know I'll save some cutoffs for you. |
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| Author: | old man [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 6:27 am ] |
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I read in one of my wood books that osage orange is the only wood (tested by the writer) that shows absolutely no effect from humidity changes. Ron |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:13 am ] |
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AMEN, brother!! And I've got some Osage when you run out of that. KBW |
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| Author: | Mark Swanson [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:18 am ] |
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I've used it too and I like it for bridge plates. |
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| Author: | John Kinnaird [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:21 am ] |
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Steve, Bob, Thanks for the offers. Looks like we OLFers should never have to go without bridge plates. Bob I think I am going to go the osage route for a while, untill such time as I get myself another plank of padouk but I sure do appreciate the offer. I also appreciate the comments. I am feeling good about this decision, which is a real good thing since the osage is now stuck to the top. Kpjm |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:33 am ] |
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Kpjm? Huh? Kinnaird pyjamas? Kinnaird plays jaded music? Kant plies jaundiced mush? Huh? |
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| Author: | John Kinnaird [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:52 am ] |
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sejsy yjr jrvl str upi ftohomh sy/ vsm'y upi drr yjsy o jsbr ,u gomhrtd om yjr etpmh [pdoyopm/ str upi ,slomh gim p g,r? kpjm |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 9:09 am ] |
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John I think there is something wrong with your keyboard. |
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| Author: | old man [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:11 am ] |
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I think it is backward code for Mr. John P. Kinnaird Or the Mighty J.P.K. or........... Ron |
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| Author: | old man [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:13 am ] |
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I think it is backward code for Mr. John P. Kinnaird Or the Mighty J.P.K. or........... Whoops, something wrong with my keyboard, too, I guess. Ron |
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| Author: | John Kinnaird [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:25 am ] |
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Guys I think there may bw somtwhing wraojjg ddoy j,u gomhrtnpstf/ kpjm |
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| Author: | Tim McKnight [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 12:14 pm ] |
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Osage works well for bridge plates but inspect the wood [carefully] before using it. If it has any dark brown streaks in it DON'T use it as Osage is prone to cracking along those streaks. Must be an inherant weakness in the wood or mineral deposits or mystical stuff ??? I also prefer to use skew cuts like this ////////// as opposed to a true QS piece. QS will work if that is all you have though. Skew cut Madagascar is another great wood for bridge plates too. |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:59 pm ] |
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Oh, ok bro. Thag melw ommdumwf fpps wxwmr. |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Thu Sep 22, 2005 12:14 am ] |
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At the risk of hijacking yet another thread, Tim, is this what is known as Riff Sawn wood? I was under the impression that 30? to 60? (or something like that) was Riff sawn wood. Any thoughts? |
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| Author: | Tim McKnight [ Thu Sep 22, 2005 12:23 am ] |
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Yes, you are correct Paul. It is rift sawn. I use the term Skew cut and rift interchangably and maybe this is incorrect on my part? Sorry for the confusion that's why I drew the little ///////// diagram to reflect the grain orientation. (Off topic ...... FYI - we decided not to go to the show in the midwest that we discussed earlier.) |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Thu Sep 22, 2005 1:25 am ] |
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Is it really rift sawn lumber? I usually just take a q/s piece and orient it so the grain runs non parallel to the bridge pins and somewhat in the opposite direction of the top grain (not purely 90 degrees because of the bridge pin issue). |
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| Author: | Alan Carruth [ Thu Sep 22, 2005 5:42 am ] |
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I, too, have used Osage in the past, and found it to work well. I like the skew cut, in any bridge plate, as it's the most resistent to splitting. Osage is pretty split resisitant anyway; far better in that respect than Padauk. The only drawback I found with Osage is that it's ring-porous, and the ring lines can be relatively soft. I was always worried that the bal end would land on one of those softer lines and wear through. About four years ago I got some Persimmon, the American member of the ebony family. It's as crack resistant as Osage, and as hard, but it's diffuse porous with tiny pores, so there are no soft spots. That's what I use for bridge plates now. I have noticed no particular acoustic effect one way or the other. |
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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Thu Sep 22, 2005 6:13 am ] |
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My take on 'rift sawn' is cutting a log entirely from one aspect. That is say using a band mill and starting at the top of the log and continuing to slice boards off until you are at the bottom. The result is a bunch of flat sawn boards, a few quarter sawn boards and a bunch of boards that are in between. Shane |
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